April 2 to April 16th, 2004
(Click on pictures to enlarge)
(4/2/04) The
long-awaited 20th anniversary special R&R getaway to the South
Pacific began at 4:00 AM when we left for BWI airport. Our flight arrangements
were made by the Windstar Cruises, so we left BWI at 6:30 � had a 1 � hour
layover at the beautiful new Cinc
innati airport � then continued on Delta to Los
Angeles, arriving at 10:30 AM Pacific time. Luckily our bags were checked
through, because we had a long hike to the Bradley International Terminal
� then more lines to check in with Tahiti Air Nui and go through security before
finally meeting our friends Skip and Kathy Dugan from Colorado. We hadn�t
seen them since the Greece-Turkey cruise in 2001, but it seemed like only
yesterday! We shared many laughs and memories while waiting in the
�holding area� � small, crowded, and disappointing.
Finally we boarded a bus after many delays, and drove to the plane � a
comfortable new airbus � and were on our way at last! The economy seats were
quite comfortable � each with its own monitor
and remote for movies, videos,
music and games, and a footrest. The dinner was excellent, but the �snack� only
fair. After an 8+ hour flight we arrived in Papeete, Tahiti in a heavy
rainstorm at ~ 7:30 PM. Customs went smoothly, our bags made it (!), and we
were warmly greeted with tarjetas de crédito en linea flower leis and bussed to the waiting Windstar.
Departure was delayed because of the late arrival of most of the passengers �
including a group of 92 coming from all over the country through LA for a
wedding on Bora Bora during the ship�s stopover there on Monday!
When
the check-in procedure was over, we went to our stateroom � a comfortable space
with plenty
of storage. Deciding to forget unpacking until the next morning, we
toured the ship (only 70 cabins, maximum passenger capacity 150), which was a
pleasant, intimate, smaller version of the �Song of Flower� � with the addition
of 4 tall masts and the capacity to SAIL through the deep blue waters � which it
did that night with high winds. After a nightcap in the pool bar, we went to
sleep (though fitfully), with lots of cradle-rocking due to the high waves from
the storm.
(4/3/04) This
morning was devoted to unpacking after a delicious breakfast buffet. We learned
that our arrival in Raiatea would be delayed from 1:00 to 3:30 due to weather
and the late start, so all tour excursions had to be cancelled. (Since we were
repeating the cruise the next week, it was a welcome chance to kick back and
rest, but we felt sorry for those who had looked forward to the outings.)
Raiatea,
�the Sacred Island�(�faraway heaven�) is beautiful. The main town was small,
but pleasant, with beautiful flowers. We explored the shops that
were open �
admiring the crafts, jewelry and beautiful fabrics � then stocked up on bottled
water and wine from the local grocery store. After a pleasant drink in the
square, we returned to the ship for a shower. At 6:30 the local children,
teenagers and adults entertained us with lively Polynesian dances and music in
their colorful costumes. It was delightful! The youngest was only one year
old, and the oldest was her grandmother. They were able to shimmy their hips so
fast it made your head spin � great exercise!!
Our first
dinner in the beautiful dining room was truly first class. Appetizers included
escargot
(without shells) with julienned roasted vegetables (me) and compressed
artichoke & tomato torte (Paul), house salad with greens, beetroot and cucumbers
(me) and beet soup (Paul) and wonderful entrees. Three of us had the delicious Ahi tuna with Asian vegetables and Skip had a tender steak and a mountain of
shoestring fries. Dessert included chocolate cr�me brulee and lemon sherbet.
We ended a wonderful evening on the pool deck with coffee, Cuban cigars for the
boys, and the delicious Banyuls aged �cognac� that we brought back from France
for this special occasion.
Music for
listening and dancing was provided by Colin and Simone � a delightful
couple and
talented singers and musicians from Australia. It was a special evening under
the stars�. Then the tropical rains returned, bringing the outdoor party to an
end. Our first full day in Tahiti was a relaxing and pleasant one � wonderful
people on ship and ashore � beautiful scenery and delicious food. Can�t wait
for the adventure to continue!�
(4/4/04) We awoke as
our ship was heading to the next destination � Huahine, a very sparsely
populated,
but beautiful, lush island. After a light breakfast (we�re gaining
weight already!), we took the tender to shore for our first excursion �
horseback riding on the beach. The Marquesas horses were small and more content
to walk than trot � but it was fun and the scenery, with tropical mountains
behind us and the beautiful water lapping against the rocky shoreline, very
special. (In the distance we could see the outlines of Raiatea and her sister
island Taha�a, and a faint peek at Bora Bora beyond � our port of call tomorrow
and Tuesday.) The heat and humidity were stifling � made worse by the long
pants needed for the ride. Video
We
returned to the ship, recovered in the air conditioning, then devoured a huge
Mexican lunch buffet � enchiladas, tacos, chicken fajitas and all the trimmings �
with a delicious bowl of chilled pear soup. (Other choices included a bountiful
array of salads, breads, meats and cheeses, the ever present fruit platter, and
many dessert choices � not to mention of option to order from the lunch menu.
One won�t go hungry here!!) Next came a much-needed nap to pay back the sleep
debt that always is an issue at the beginning of a trip � wonderful!
At
5:00 we attended a lecture on the famous Tahitian black pearls. The farming
process is amazing! First the oyster eggs are netted, then grown for 3 years
until big enough for the expert grafting of a �seed� into the gonad of the
oyster, along with a piece of the shell lining. If successful, this will grow
into a pearl over the next 15-24 months. Out of 100 oysters grafted, only 50
will produce a pearl, and from that 50, only 10 will be of commercial quality
(rated A,B,C, or D, depending on color, luster, shape, surface, and size� the
larger ones the product of 1 or 2 additional seed implantations in a successful
oyster!). That helps to explain the very high pricing on this gem!
After
a quick shower and change of clothes (�casual elegance� is the dinner attire),
we attended the champagne reception with the Captain and senior crew, enjoyed
lots of yummy hors d�oeuvres (little willpower), then went on to another
delicious dinner. I had grilled snapper served on a bed of garlic mashed
potatoes and vegetables.
We
ended the evening relaxing in the breeze on the upper deck, then visited the
bridge and had a stargazing lesson. The Southern Cross was visible, but many
stars couldn�t be easily seen because of the full moon. (Captain Andrew Walsh
was a lively conversationalist and was a friend of �Captain Dag� � our skipper
from the �Song of Flower� in 2001.) It was a wonderful day in Paradise!
(4/5/04) Awoke early
and watched our arrival and anchoring in Bora Bora � a beautiful group of
islands w
ith the largest mountain partially covered by clouds. After breakfast
(the choices are endless � I had an assortment of fruit, creamy French yogurt,
and a delicious omelet made to order) we headed out on a �Snorkeling Safari�,
with stops
in two locations. The first was at the tip of Toopua Island,
where
we spotted countless colorful fish, but the coral was less spectacular than we
had hoped. However, the second stop was in a shallow �coral garden� at the edge
of the barrier reef, where the coral was gorgeous! We were entertained by our
lively guide Alex � a real bundle of energy, who kept us smiling with his
singing, dancing, and antics that included pulley a large morey eel from it�s
hiding place and finding a small octopus and wearing it like a hat!
Video
We were
then taken to a small private island, Motu Tapu, where we had a delicious
barbeque lunch and Mai Tais served in coconuts. It was a beautiful spot and
the sight for the afternoon wedding, attended by 95 of the 150 passengers.
Those of us who opted to return to the ship had it virtually to ourselves�. A
nap was welcome!
Cocktails
were enjoyed with live music and a tapas bar (which included tempura,
vege
tables, tapenade, etc.). Prior to this was the 4 PM afternoon �tea� with
other delectable goodies� Oh, the waistlines are growing! We tried to cut the
calories at dinner and enjoyed wonderful roasted eggplant and garlic soup, then
Paul and I shared a delicious Asian spring roll and low-fat Chicken Provencal
Stew. Unfortunately for the chocolate lovers, dessert was a chocolate buffet on
the pool deck � so much for willpower! We again enjoyed live music and dancing,
with another beautiful sunset.
(4/6/04)
The days are flying by! We awoke to rain and overcast skies � a good
excuse for a �lazy day��
We had coffee at poolside (the �pool� is only ~ 15 ft x 10 ft � about twice the
size of the hot tub! � but the surrounding decks are
wonderful, with dozens of lounge chairs, tables, and a bar) � actually in our
favorite corner of the upper deck overlooking the �pool� level. Breakfast was
served in the restaurant due to the weather. I had a huge plate of fresh fruit
and a blueberry blintz. Paul splurged on Eggs Benedict and bacon.
We
then took the tender into Bora Bora�s main �town�, poked into shops, changed
some $$, bou
ght
postcards, stamps, sinus medicine, etc. Apparently the prettiest area of Bora
Bora is on the point of the island, which we plan to
visit next week on the 2nd round � a nice luxury! We waited dockside for the �Sail-Away� opportunity �
to photograph the beautiful Wind Star under sail, then return to the ship by tender to enjoy lunch as we set sail for
Moorea. It was fantastic! Lunch consisted of another wonderful array of
salads and other dishes from the Indonesian-themed hot buffet, including beef
and chicken satay, meatballs, fried bananas, etc.
At
3:00 we attended a cooking class with Executive Chef Erwin (a tall, 30-year-old
Dutchman
with
an ego to match!). Our class of 14 suited up in authentic chef�s jackets and
tall paper hats, then observed the preparation of mango-papaya salsa and crab
cakes (not Maryland-style, but made from Dungeness crab � previously froz
en
and squeezed dry). We then split up into three groups and set to work at
tables, chopping all the many ingredients required.
Our group won 4 out of 5 categories (salsa presentation and taste and crab cake
presentation and taste � we came in 2nd on crab cake consistency).
We were then able to enjoy the result of our efforts (with the appetizer-sized
crab cakes gently pan-browned by Chef Erwin) with a nice glass of white wine.
It was fun! We wore our chef�s hats to the pool bar for a celebratory toast and
a lot of teasing.
After a nap, it was off to eat again! We all ate a lighter than usual dinner.
I had chilled avocado soup, asparagus with dill sauce, and grilled Mahi Mahi
over corn salsa with plantains. Delish! We all chose an early bedtime.
(4/7/04)
We went on deck early to watch the beautiful approach to our next stop -- Cook�s
Bay, Moorea. Unfortunately, the video camera has
been misbeha
ving
due to the humidity and we were not able to record it. However, the highlight
of our day was Parasailing (the first time
for both) over this beautiful spot � spectacular, exciting, and a little scary
at times. The take-off and landing from the back of the boat was surprisingly
easy, thanks to skilled operators, so all we had to do was relax in the harness
and enjoy the view during the 15 minute ride 450 feet up in the sky � quite a
thrill! Video
We returned to the
ship in time for lunch, then relaxed until 3:00, took the tender to shore, and
went to a nearby village to find the internet caf�. Black pearl stores are
everywhere, but I doubt that I will splurge� At 4:30 we were back on the
ship for our kitchen tour with Chef Erwin, who turned out to be much more
engaging with a small captive audience (the Dugans and us!). The kitchen was
impressive � but we were especially interested in the logistics involved in
getting the meals out with the needed quality and time controls, and the
environmental controls they employ, including closed incineration of all dry
trash and grinding up the leftover food and forcing it through giant sieves
before it is slowly released as fish food.
The
evening entertainment was wonderful � seven Polynesian women (with many
beautiful costume changes) doing native dances in the lounge. Some were fast
and very sexy � others dreamlike and beautiful. They wore some of the
most beautiful flowers I�ve every seen in their hair and as leis � and Paul
bought 2 beautiful floral head pieces for Kathy and I to wear during the evening
� the fragrance was intoxicating! Video
There was a major
downpour at 5:00 PM, drenching the pool deck where the evening barbeque
was
planned � but luckily the rain stopped in time for the hardworking crew to
transform the area in just one hour with extra tables and chairs, table settings
(cloths, silverware, glasses and candles!) � and a
fantastic buffet with cheeses, fruits, salads, roast suckling pig, flank steak,
lamb chops, chicken, lobster, grilled fish, etc. ETC�. plus a dessert buffet
that included yummy bananas Foster. After the feast, the buffet was taken away
so that the singing and dancing could begin � including entertainment by the
crew. One lively party!
(4/8/04) It�s hard to
believe that the first week is almost over� but exciting to know that we have
another week to go! We woke up this morning as we were dropping anchor in
Opunohu Bay � with more beautiful vistas of Moorea�s mountains and lush tropical
foliage. After breakfast we took a 3�-
hour �Discover Moorea� tour by air-conditioned bus, which included a tour around
most of the island with lively commentary by our
guide �Rico�. The most spectacular stop was at Point Belvedere, with views of
both bays and �Bali� mountain (so named because the photograph of this peak was
used as a background for the movie �South Pacific�, which was actually filmed in
Hawaii!). During the tour we saw lush tropical valleys, forests of banyan,
teak, mahogany and pine (the latter two imported to this area because they grow
so fast in this climate), pineapple and banana
plantations, gorgeous flowers, and fascinating plants. We also stopped at a
fruit distillery, where we sampled countless fruit-based liquors (and, of
course, bought some!). The final stop was predictably at a shopping area� then
finally we were able to return to the ship for a late, but delicious lunch. I
had a cold salad sampler, wonderful chilled banana-orange soup and ratatouille
in a puff pastry shell. Dessert was a light raspberry mousse topped with
assorted fresh berries. Paul had Hungarian goulash and chicken curry. We were
pleasantly stuffed! Because the sun was scorching, Paul sought refuge in the
air-conditioned cabin, while yours truly relaxed on the deck in the shade.
We
were able to relax and enjoy the beautiful sail-away from Moorea witho
ut
any worries about packing. The island at sunset was spectacular from the
water! An added attraction was Chef Erwin�s �famous
Asian pancakes� � cooked and served on deck. It tasted like a savory Peking
Duck stir-fry in soft Asian pancakes (He promises to share the recipe�) �
delicious! They could have substituted for dinner�. But, of course, we went to
the restaurant and ate again shortly afterward!
(4/9/04) Since we were
dockside in Papeete and basically had the day to ourselves, we walked
to
town on foot at ~ 9:00 after breakfast (while the other passengers prepared to
disembark). As predicted, almost all the shops were closed because of the Good
Friday holiday, so we toured the town and located the market we hope to visit
when we return next week. City Hall was very impressive, the plain Catholic
church was not. Because Papeete, on the island of Tahiti, is the capital of the
Society Islands (Archepelago), it was not as pleasant as the quaint villages on
the other islands.
We returned
to the ship at 11:30 and had it virtually to ourselves... only four couples are doing
the second week. The captain said we failed our first week and had to
repeat the course. We relaxed on the pool deck and enjoyed the huge lunch
provided by the kitchen... club sandwiches, freedom fries, and plates of deserts.
The afternoon was free for reading
and napping as we awaited the gradual arrival of the new batch of passengers�..
then the daily schedule resumed, with tea time for 4 to 5, music and cocktails
from 6:30 � 7:30, then dinner, where we joined Fred and Jen, two of the other
�repeaters�. I had delicious butternut squash soup and roasted duck. Paul had
saffron gazpacho and spaghetti carbonara. Desserts were a poached pear for me
and cr�me brulee for Paul. We�re both going to look like Porky Pig before this
cruise is over!! We hit the hay early with a movie DVD � looking forward to an
on-time arrival in Raitea tomorrow.
Click here to
continue to week two
